camminando | Rome Contemporary Architecture: MAXXI

Roma’s urban texture is based on the intersection of axes, which are often centered in a piazza, as an expanding spider web connecting with other webs of axes. The complexity of places and visual beauty of the urban fabric is often related to the axes connections and intersection, which create frames of views where the architecture of the buildings, often connected by arches or porticos continues in streets and squares, in the making of places.
Rome does not have much to present forcontemporary architecture and unfortunately the very few examples, signed by archistar like Richard Meier and Zaha Hadid, do not relate to the urban fabric at all. The relationship with the site is always been the very first condition to be analyzed in any architectural design intervention, as learned from Architecture 101 —or at least when I studied architecture in the University of Rome.  And Rome is quite a site: thousand years of history can be still perceived in the many layers of art and architecture of hundreds of piazze, vicoli, archi, fontane, obelisks.
My visit to the contemporary art museum MAXXI foundation confirmed my considerations, initiated by the Ara Pacis museum designed by Richard Meier. The MAXXI, signed by Zaha Hadid is located in a perhaps less prominent historical area, quartiere Flaminio, yet close to the river Tevere and to a masterpiece of modern engineering, Palazzetto dello Sport by Luigi Nervi.
The MAXXI would be a per se interesting ”blob”, following a vocabulary of linear geometries, cantilevered volumes and forms defined by circulation patterns. But it lacks integration with urban context. Another major criticism is in its formal complexity which competes with the artwork exhibited. Usually contemporary art, especially three-dimensional installations are best presented and perceived in a “white box” container. And the building also presents the typical blob characteristic of structure unrelated to form, so different from almost any example of architectural vocabulary present in Rome, from classical to Renaissance and Baroque.

 

Excerpts from the multimedia project

“Axes Mundi: Perceptions and Understanding of Places as Intersections of Space, Time and Culture"

camminando | Rome Contemporary Architecture: Ponte della Musica

My morning walkabout theme is contemporary architecture in Rome North. Ponte Della Musica is my last encounter on my way back home.

The pedestrian bridge signed by Buro Happold just opened in spring 2011 and connects Piazzale Gentile da Fabriano (quartiere Flaminio) with Lungotevere Marasciallo Cadorna (quartiere della Vittoria) . The steel and reinforced concrete structure spans over 190 meters and include two tilted arches ,diverging from the base. Clean and elegant design, although not breathtaking. I liked better than the MAXXI ( my critique is coming soon), at least some reference to the site. I read about it and sounds like the bridge is quite underused, with an hourly traffic only 40 pedestrians.

 

 

 

Excerpts from the multimedia project

“Axes Mundi: Perceptions and Understanding of Places as Intersections of Space, Time and Culture"

camminando | Rome Modern Architecture: Palazzetto dello Sport

 The 1958 Palazzetto dello Sport (Pier Luigi Nervi and Annibale Vitellozzi) is the modern architecture jewel of quartiere Flaminio. The sixty-meter diameter reinforced concrete dome is made of intersecting radial ribs, which resemble the spiral configuration of sunflowers. A great example of form follows structure follows function!

The wood polyhedric sculpture in front of the Palazzetto dello Sport

Excerpts from the multimedia project

“Axes Mundi: Perceptions and Understanding of Places as Intersections of Space, Time and Culture"

Vernissages | Rome, November 10

 "Guide alle aree abbandonate del fiume Tevere", Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

Pasquale Polidori "doppio registro / double speech" a cura di Silvia Bordini

al MLAC

Rome and Contemporary Art | Luigi Di Sarro

Yesterday I became familiar with the work of Luigi Di Sarro, an important artist tragically deceased in 1979. Di Sarro’s oeuvre was at the intersection between art and science. The artist was also a practicing medical doctor and surgeon and one of his latest investigations was anatomy as interpreted in art. The work goes across many disciplines, methodologies and media, often transforming two-dimensional materials such as metallic mesh into sculptural morphologies. I was very intrigued by his early geometric explorations, where formal geometries transcend into organic forms often resembling biological processes. His work also embraced many different media: photography, drawings, sculpture, site specific installations and performance. I was extremely impressed about his innovative approach, although developed several decades ago, still contemporary and fresh.
Very inspiring work: to learn more visit Centro Luigi Di Sarro

camminando | Roman Walkabouts

Rain finally stopped after sunset and I started my walks in the darkness celebrated by the Roman theatrical street lighting.

Baroque is the theme du jour and obelisks are a recurrent encounter, while the country is anxiously waiting for Berlusconi's resignation. I walk by Palazzo Montecitorio,

My itinerary is marked by my visual memories as recorded by my smart phone —the only camera of my walkabout, as usual.

Piazza del Popolo: Chiese Gemelle

Piazza del Popolo: Obelisco Flaminio

A courtyard in Via Margutta

 Borromini: Palazzo di Propaganda Fide

Colonna Traiana in Piazza della Colonna, in front of Palazzo Chigi

 Palazzo Montecitorio,where the Italian Parliament meet

 Pantheon

Piazza Navona: Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi facing Borromini's Sant'Agnese

Excerpts from the conceptual multimedia project

“Axes Mundi: Perceptions and Understanding of Places as Intersections of Space, Time and Culture"

camminando | Islands: Ischia

 

It seems like traveling to a different universe, when a 40-minute hydrofoil ride takes me to Ischia, away from the tense Neapolitan scenes where all the locals approached when asking for directions to Molo Beverello, tell me to be careful with my belongings. Ischia is the closest place I envision paradise to be like, and I am still stating it after my fourth visit to this island.
Ischia is a volcanic island about 30 km from Naples. Hydrotherapy, blessed by is one of the many lures the island offers Among the others: scent of flowers and lemon trees, several hundreds feet cliffs diving in the crystal clear mar Tirreno. Ischia witnessed several thousand years of history: it was inhabited since the Bronze age, as from the Mycenaean pottery findings. Ancient Greeks, Etruscan and Romans followed. Homer and Virgil wrote about Ischia, although was called with different names: Aenaria, Arima, Inarima and Pithecusa.

I would not go in summer as I don't enjoy crowd and noise immersion ---my taste many others do, otherwise the island woul not be noisy and overcrowded in summer. My other visits were in spring, this is my first staying in Ischia in the approaching winter season, in the hope to still enjoy outdoor swimming in the outdoor thermal water pools. The weather in Italy this year is extremely warm (almost 20 degrees Celsius) yet walking to Spiaggia della Citara is not encouraging for a dive in the sea. But the sunlight shining on the ocean is magical and the views breathtaking, my hotel welcoming and beautiful... R&R has finally begun!

 

Excerpts from the conceptual multimedia project

“Axes Mundi: Perceptions and Understanding of Places as Intersections of Space, Time and Culture"

Camminando | Rome to Naples: Layered Decadent Beauty

While leaving Rome from the Termini station you experience dirty train windows filtering many layers of history and socio-geographical imprints.
Urban scenes mingles with countrysides bucolic environment, it seems to be in stage for a time travel movie on lord Byron, where ancient Rome ruins arise from XXI century residential run-down developments "decorated" with graffiti. It is quite romantic and decadent, especially when experienced in the low sunlight of early morning.
The topology is varied and remarkable as the manmade environment: hills and mountains from the Appenino Campano suddenly rise from flat fields, harvested with any kind of vegetables. I learn from my train seat neighbor that vineyard grows to 12-foot height; the local wine is Asprino Avesano.
Yes, indeed, I am traveling through the magical land described by Homer narrating Ulysses' Odyssey.

 

Excerpts from the conceptual multimedia project

“Axes Mundi: Perceptions and Understanding of Places as Intersections of Space, Time and Culture"